Warmth and Supply Chains: Considering the Source of Your Home’s Heat
This is a guest post by Adaptive Curmudgeon:
“You’re nuts to mess around with sticks”, a friend was taunting as I loaded my wood stove, “if I want heat I just crank the thermostat”. She was right, loading firewood is much bigger hassle than a furnace. I had to pause before responding. How could I explain my preference? “When I find propane tanks growing in my backyard”, I mused, “I’ll buy a propane furnace”.
Understandably, she thought I was talking about money but I was talking about control. “Normal” furnaces are fueled by an endless expenditure of money that goes into an incomprehensibly complex system. Nobody, not even the most powerful of governments, fully controls that system. I deliberately avoid situations where I’m forced to spend cash in amounts determined by someone else. Meanwhile my house is surrounded by trees. With wise management and a lot of manual labor I have a perpetual sustainable supply of “free” fuel. Let’s see a propane tank promise the same!
Many people heat entirely with wood. I don’t. I grudgingly avail myself of a traditional furnace when I’m not at home (or too lazy to build a fire). Recently my “backup”, a criminally inefficient old furnace, died. Pondering replacement options gave me an opportunity to consider the many ways one can power a furnace. The following list is my consideration of heat sources and evaluation of which options give the homeowner greater or lesser influence on their fuel supply. I also fretted about power dependence because a power outage in my climate is a serious matter. If you live somewhere warmer you may reach different conclusions.
Piped In
If you live in a city, a natural gas line may come to your house. Natural gas furnaces are highly efficient and operate with virtually no user effort. Philosophical hand wringing be damned; if I had a pipeline to my house I’d use it. Some natural gas furnaces can run without electricity but most can’t. Since no gas is “stored” at your site, an interruption in the pipeline will affect you immediately.
Grid electricity is effective but it gets expensive and if the power goes down you’re SOL.
Stored Fossil Fuels
If you’re beyond the reach of a pipeline, a tank of propane can serve the same function. Propane and natural gas furnaces are nearly identical. Since your supply is stored on site it won’t be easily interrupted.
Fuel oil furnaces are fueled by a tank of fuel stored on site. They’re less efficient than propane. Some oil furnaces can accept biodiesel.
Oil and propane furnaces are usually dependent on electricity. Some small propane devices without blowers are an exception. If dependence on electricity is an issue you’ll need to plan accordingly.
Stored Solid Fuels
Pellet fuels are the lonely middle ground between ubiquitous fossil fuels and traditional firewood. It’s compelling technology but it hasn’t caught on yet. Traditional firewood’s flaw is that it comes in a semi-random array of moisture content, size, and shape. Pelletized fuel is highly processed and uniform. Thus it burns much more efficiently than firewood and augers and associated mechanical wizardry feed the fire automatically. It’s nearly effortless compared to firewood and pellet stoves can look beautiful. It’s still more effort than fossil fuels and pellet stoves are depressingly dependent on electricity. Only battery based heroics can overcome power outages.
Pellets are surprisingly environmentally benign and are purchased in easy to handle bags. Unfortunately you can’t make your own pellets any more than you can gather your own natural gas. Just like fossil fuels you’re at the mercy of a fluctuating market. Multifuel or specialized pellet stoves can burn other forms of pelletized biomass; notably corn kernels. Theoretically you could raise and process your own corn for a corn stove. Theoretically I could learn Chinese.
Firewood
Firewood is the most “unfettered” fuel. Enterprising folks who harvest and/or process their own firewood save a lot of money. However, don’t underestimate the labor involved. You’ll need an arsenal of equipment and a strong back. You’ll wind up with a massive stack of wood in the yard.
For “self reliance” it’s a slam dunk. It’s the most locally based and decentralized fuel. You can cut it yourself or buy it. You can buy it cut and split or buy logs and do part of the processing yourself. It doesn’t take massive organizational clout to get into the firewood market so informal entrepreneurs with chainsaws and rusty trucks can get the job done. Decentralized supplies tend to be less uniform and firewood for sale ranges from high quality and cheap to rotten overpriced crap. Caveat emptor. Delivery costs add up; if you’ve got a pickup now is the time to use it.
Wood can be burned efficiently in fireplace inserts and woodstoves, wood furnaces, and wood boilers. A few of these can handle multiple fuels (including fossil fuels). Many wood burners aren’t dependent on electricity. Various gadgets try to make using firewood easier. They help but firewood will always be a bigger hassle than fossil fuels. Some folks prefer the heat of a woodstove as a cheery place to warm your feet and watch a pretty fire. I do. Nobody looks forward to warming their feet by a gas furnace.
The Bottom Line
Fossil fuels are shipped thousands of miles. Firewood is sourced locally. Pellets fall in the middle. A disturbance in a country you can’t pronounce may irrationally unhinge fossil fuels markets, mildly ruffle pellet markets, and won’t be noticed by firewood burners.
The corporate behemoths who shepherd fossil fuels from the earth’s crust to your furnace are shockingly reliable. With rare exceptions when you’ve got cash they’ve got fuel to sell. Firewood sellers won’t have such a steady supply. Pellets, as usual, fall in the middle.
Fossil fuels are effortless. Firewood requires a tremendous amount of work. Pellets, as always, fall in the middle.
You must purchase fossil fuels or pellets. The ability to use your own labor in lieu of cash makes firewood special.
Nearly every heating device requires electricity. A few gas and most firewood options are delightful exceptions.
What’s Next
I cut most of my own firewood and I’ve discussed some of my experiences in comparing woodsplitters and a product review of Stihl chainsaws. I still prefer a furnace for “backup”. When I replace my oil furnace with a (hopefully innovative) option I’ll report on that as well. Stay tuned.
Adaptive Curmudgeon, May 2010






Nicely put. I’ve had all three, and currently have a pellet stove and oil furnace for backup and water heating. Wood is pretty to burn, pellet stoves are loud (if in your living room, as in my case) and oil just stinks all the way around.
How do you feel about solar water heating for heat, with forced hot water, as many of the homes here in New England have? It’s something I’m currently seeing and selling a lot of. The technology has come of age, and it’s really effective.
I have seen a few websites that sell wood pellet mills, you CAN make your own.. But is it cost efficient? Depends on your area, access to source wood and ambition.
I have had woodstoves for 20+ years. You can REALLY cut down on the workload with a catalytic converter. My experience has been that the volume of wood burned is reduced by easily 1/2 and the rsultant heat output is easily double when the combuster kicks in. The downside is you can’t burn garbage, scrap/scrappy, or sap woods (pine, etc) with a catalytic combuster, and have it last very long (even ceramic can get over-fired). The upside is partially seasoned wood will actually give more heat as a smoldering fire works best for the cumbustor. Another upside, NO creosote build up; its totally consumed by the catalytic action. (We moved after to years of heavy use of that stove on a 3 story stub chimney – Never cleaned. The bank required a chimney sweep – ALL of the clinkers fit comfortably in two hands! I have had 18 trouble free years with my fire brick lined Hearthmate Catalytic wood stove (too good to leave in NY when we moved). The cabin is a moderate sized 2 story (and great room) cabin, at 2,800 feet in the Allegheny Mountains. Although equipped with a power blower; we just pull the fan unit for a convection stove when the power goes out. After four days of continuous use two winters ago, at -10, we had 2 windows open downstairs, and 1 window upstairs when the interior temp hit 79 (and no the 35 year old cabin isn’t that tight). The stove doesn’t heat the basement where I was working. Catalytic Combusters are a little finickey to start from a cold stove and are counter-intuitive to run. You start the COLD stove normally and when the stove and combuster are hot enough, 350-400 (with a cheap stove thermometer), pull the diverter to push the smoke across the converter, at the same time start reducing the damper in stages and REDUCING the air inflow. At normal run the damper will be closed at least 2/3 and the inflow will cut WAY down. Done right the combuster will soar from 400 to 1,200 in short order (your/my cheap external thermometer pegs out at 800)and is easily maintained at 800 to 1,200 with tossing in several 18″ stove splits every 45-60 minutes or so. You probably don’t want a complete operations manual here; But, try a Catalytic Combuster and you’ll wonder why you didn’t get one sooner (and your back WILL thank you!).
I agree Jud. Modern wood stoves are much more efficient than the old 1970′s (or earlier) versions. Virtually all of them have features which both reduce emissions (which also means cleaner chimneys!) and squeeze more heat from a given mass of wood. Mine is a non-catalytic reburn system which has a lever that’s about the same as what you describe on your stove. It takes a while to get the hang of these systems but you’re rewarded with a lot more heat per pound of wood; which means reduced labor. The difference is day and night.
I also tend to fuss over my wood trying to get the “perfect” fuel out of an imperfect medium. I’ve burned “good” firewood and “bad” firewood and the difference in heat and effort is huge. Carefully managing your wood supply is a good way to use your noggin to save your back.
While the intial cost may seem steep, There are pelletizers available and whats good about owning one is not only can you make your own wood pellets for the stove/heater but you can make livestock food too….
From FarmTek’s site:
BioMass Pellet Mills
American-made Pellet Mills pelletize yard waste, grasses, log wood, waste wood and other material for use as biomass fuel, animal feed, bedding and more.
• Material can be hand fed into funnel top, hopper fed, or adapted for use with a feed auger.
• Pellet Mills are available in electric-motor or PTO-driven models, in 8″ or 12″ diameters, and feature self-metering material feed.
• American- made pellet mills easily turn waste into pellets suitable for use as biomass fuel.
I developed a filter for an electric clothes dryer which allows the user to return the hot, humid air back into the home. This filters out 99.5% of all contaminants including smell. With the extra heat added to the home, the furnace doesn’t have to work as much, the moisture added to the environment gets rid of static electricity and in many cases, this filter shortens the time required to dry the clothes. So, this little filter saves energy for the furnace, saves electricity from the dryer and makes the home environment much better to live in. Please check out dryernet.com
I have a very small company in Washington, MO, just my wife and myself but we both see this as a great energy saving device. We tested it last winter and saved about $20.00 a month on our energy bill. Do you think this warrants a little exposure? Thank you, Jim Atkinson, 636-388-2808
Out of curiosity, what led you to eliminate geothermal as a replacement? I’m in the initial stages of researching and it seems to be a pretty sustainable and off the grid option.